Honeymoon in Kauai



After Rod & I set out on our great adventure of sharing our lives together on 9-10-11 (in other words, we got hitched), we waited until Tuesday to head out for our adventure to a beautiful Hawaiian island.  Taking off out of San Diego, we had a brief layover in Honolulu, then we set out for our final destination, "The Garden Island" of Kauai.

Downtown Honolulu with Diamond Head on the right.

Waiting our turn on the Honolulu runway.

The volcanic island of Kauai was created long ago as the Pacific plate shifted and ruptured a vent allowing magma to spew from the ocean floor into the icy cold Pacific Ocean waters thousands of feet below the surface.  Pele, the Hawaiian volcano goddess, created many islands, but some of these islands eventually surrendered to the power of the waves wearing them away.  Kure, Midway, French Frigate Shoal, Necker and Nihoa were worn away to nothing more than atolls (fringing coral reefs) today.

Beginning as a simply barren island, Kauai's lush vegetation was slowly delivered on the wind as seeds were carried to this new land to eek out a meeger existence.  Under extraordinary circumstances, new species began to arrive.  As the plants and animals lived out their lives, they broke up the rock and formed soil.  The rains and waves also shaped the island, cutting the landscape with rivers and forming beaches from the pounding waves.  The beautiful island of Kauai consists of 553 square miles of beach, rainforest, desert, mountains and plains.

Kauai's east shore.

Eventually settlers came to the island sometime around the fourth or fifth century AD.  These intrepid adventurers are believed to have come from the Marquesas Islands 2,500 miles away to the most isolated island chain in the world.  The landscape of the island back then is much different from the trees and lush vegetation you see today.  These first settlers brought with them staples from home: taro, breadfruit, pigs, dogs and several types of fowl.  This fact was very important to their survival.  They had arrived on an island that had no land mammals other than the Hawaiian bat and almost no edible plants.  These inhabitants lived primarily on fish and taro.  As time passed, different settlers arrived bringing with them their own plants, animals and methods of living, influencing what has become today's Kauai.

As Rod and I left the airport at Lihue on the east side of the island, we drove southward to our destination of Poipu.  As we neared  our ultimate goal of the afternoon, we drove through a prime example of the influence of the settlers on the landscape of Kauai.  As we turned onto Highway 520 (or Maluhia Road) we drove through "Tree Tunnel".  "When Walter Duncan McBryde was landscaping his home in the early 1900's, he found that he had over 500 eucalyptus trees left over.  He donated these trees, called swamp mahogany, to the county.  Many residents showed up to help plant the trees.  The result is the Tree Tunnel." [1] Today the tunnel is not quite up to its past glory.  Part of it was torn down in the 50's when the highway was rerouted.  In addition, the trees have suffered the ravages of hurricanes 'Iwa of '82 and 'Iniki of '92.  Yet, it is still a beautiful corridor to drive through and enjoy the beauty of Mother Nature.

Soon we arrived out our home away from home Poipu Kapili condos.  A beautifully furnished condo with a wonderful view of the pool and lanscaped courtyard, with a view beyond that of the waves breaking on the reef and the lava rock coastline.  Just serene!

After unpacking, we set off to eat at Brennecke's Beach Broiler.  We enjoyed a lovely view of Poipu Beach Park while munching on some delicious fish at this open air restaurant on the second floor.  Later we strolled on the beach, enjoying a beautiful sunset before we headed back home for to call it a night.

Sunset at Poipu Beach Park.

[1] Doughty, Andrew,  "The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook - Kauai Revealed", 7th edition, 2010.

¿Qué pasa Cozumel? - Island Wildlife

Cozumel is heralded as the original Caribbean destination in Mexico and is a top port of call for cruise ships.  Despite this, Cozumel remains an island that has an easy-going attitude with a laid-back personality and pleasant Mexican hospitality.  Surprisingly enough, this island is only 3% developed and still has vast stretches of pristine jungle and uninhabited shoreline.  It is home to a number of endemic species including birds like the Cozumel Thrasher, Cozumel Great Curassow, and Cozumel Vireo, and mammals such as the Cozumel Island Racoon and the Cozumel Island Coati.  Other species not native to the island include the American Crocodile and the Black Spiny-Tailed Iguana.

The Cozumel Thrasher - This once common island species is believed to be on the brink of extinction, if not actually extinct.  Storms and introduced predators, such as cats and boa constrictors, are believed to have led to its demise.  Following Hurricane Gilbert, a Category Five hurricane, in September of 1988, this thrasher was declared rare.  Only a few sightings were recorded after another hurricane, Roxanne, in 1995.  In 2004, an ABC-sponsored research team located a single bird.  Since then, however, two Category Four hurricanes have hit Cozumel and much of the island's forest cover was demolished.  After that there have been only a couple of unconfirmed sightings made in 2006 and 2007, allowing for hope that remnant populations may persist in the jungle canopy.
  

Great Curassow (male)

  

Great Curassow (female)

Cozumel Emerald



Cozumel Vireo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Cozumel Island Raccoon - This is smaller raccoon than those we have here in California, in both body and head.  It is easy to distinguish from our common raccoon because of its broad black throat band and golden yellow tail.  They like to live in the mangrove forests and wetlands at the northwest tip of the island.  Their overall diet consists of crabs, fruit, frogs, lizards, and insects; crabs being their favorite.

 

White-Nosed Coati

The Cozumel Island Coati  - Although very similar to the White-nosed Coati, the Cozumel Island Coati has shorter, softer fur and is much smaller.  It feeds on fruit and preys upon insects, and small vertebrates.

Both of these species' populations are at risk due to development.

¿Qué pasa Cozumel? - Cozumel Marine Turtle Salvation Program

During the nights of April through September each year, Cozumel plays host to thousands of sea turtles who come ashore on the eastern side of the island to nest.  They are returning to the same area that they themselves were born.  Two species of sea turtles, the loggerhead turtle (Caretta caretta) and the green turtle (Chelonia mydas), lumber their way up the beach to dig holes where they may lay from 100-150 eggs at a time.  These eggs are about the size of your average chicken egg.  Once the female is finished laying her eggs, she makes the journey back to the ocean where she will mate again and return later to lay more eggs.  These turtles can repeat this nesting process up to 6 times in one season.



Mother turtle's tracks back to the ocean.

Roughly 60 days after these eggs have been placed in their nest, the young hatchlings emerge at the surface, typically at night when the temperatures are cooler, and immediately head for the ocean.  During this season, lights are limited along the beaches to prevent the disorientaion of the new hatchlings who rely on the light reflected off of the water's surface to guide them. Once they reach the ocean, they will live in the shallows for many years, surviving on the protection and nutrition of seagrass. It will be some 20 years until these babies reach maturity and return to this same beach to lay their own eggs. With a life span of hundreds of years, sea turtles are the grandfathers of the sea.

You may also find in the bays and reefs of the Cozumel area, foraging areas where sea turtles such as hawksbill (Eretmochelys imbricate) turtles and giant leatherback (Dermochelys coriacea) turtles have been sighted swimming along the shore.

The City of San Miguel works in partnership with local police and Federal armed forces to limit activity on the east side at night during turtle nesting season. During this time, only the salvation program participants with specifically designated biologists, interns, and volunteers are allowed to walk the beaches in search of nesting female turtles, turtle nests, and recent hatchlings. Among the salvation program participants' duties are the protecting and tagging of females, the collection of scientific data, the relocation of eggs to more favorable locations on the beach, and the release of hatchlings to the sea. From the data collected, the salvation program is able to determine turtle hatching success, behavior, distribution, and population. [1]

"At this time there are essentially two turtle salvation efforts in progress: 

The Parks and Museum Foundation's Punta Sur Park Salvation Program - This program began in 2000 and covers the beach area from the entrance of Punta Sur Park all the way to the south lighthouse. Since access to the park is closed to the public at night, this program enjoys significant protection from poachers. This is a FOR PROFIT endeavor that offers tours that are publicized through the Cozumel Museum. Tickets for these excursions run about $50 per person and are sold through the Cozumel Museum downtown. 

The City of San Miguel's Volunteer Salvation Program - This program began back in the late 1980's and covers the beaches from Mezcalitos south to the Punta Sur Park entrance. What began as a grassroots effort by a few citizens interested in turtle conservation, eventually evolved into a small City funded program whereby the City relied upon volunteers to do the nightly work, but were able to fund the salaries of 2 biologists to supervise the sanctuary and the work of the volunteers. For many years, no other funds were available to further develop the program or to provide supplies, gas or vehicles for the volunteer groups working the beaches each night.

2011 Turtle Nesting Season

The 2011 Cozumel marine turtle nesting season is off to a fast start this year with over 45 loggerhead nests already registered during the month of May. The Municipal Committee that manages the activities of the Turtle Salvation Program began meeting in April under the leadership of a new Director of Ecology Héctor González Cortés. Héctor González Cortés previously worked for Fundacion de Parques y Museos and has served on Cozumel's Turtle Program Committee for over 12 years.

 City funds are low as the nesting season begins this year so the Committee has decided to once again allow tourists and volunteers to participate in the program for a nominal donation which goes toward funding gas, supplies and a lead biologist.

 For the 2011 Season there are 2 ways for visitors or islanders to participate for an evening:
 1) Tourists visiting Cozumel or those living here who would like to work for an entire night (or morning) side by side with a turtle brigade can do so during the sea turtle nesting season for a nominal donation per person from June 1 through November 15 annually.
 2) Tourists visiting Cozumel or those living here who would like to observe, learn and release baby turtles one night for a few hours with a turtle brigade can do so during the sea turtle nesting season for a nominal donation per person from June 1 through September 15 annually.

NOTE: Requests are submitted to an approval process and are handled on first-come, first-serve basis. Please allow 1 week for a response."  [1]

Don't want to lug those heavy underwater light batteries home?  Here is a way to help the biologists and brigadistas:

Those wanting to help CAN contribute in ways that will directly affect the cause. The best way to help is with the contribution of actual supplies being used by the Volunteer Brigades.


Turtle Salvation Program Supplies Wish List

• Small Hand-held Flashlights
• Forehead-Mount Flashlights for Hands-Free Working
• Small Spotlights - Car Battery Powered (via cigarette lighter)
• Batteries – AAA, AA, D
• Multi-channel 2-way Radios with protective plastic covers
• Surveyor’s Plastic Marking Tape – orange or pink neon color
• Seamstress Measuring Tapes
• Latex Gloves
• First Aid Kits
• Pens
• Black Waterproof Markers (Thin Tip Sharpie)
• Heavy Duty Small/Medium Trash Bags (NO BLACK)
• Disposable Rain Ponchos
• Water, Soft drinks, Ice Chests
• Gasoline Vouchers from Local Stations
• Propane Gas Lanterns
• 50 meter measuring tapes (on rolls)
• Spring scale capacidad 100 gr
• Spring scale capacidad 60 gr
• Any literature or reference books on marine turtles ~ Spanish or English

A great place to contribute supplies in this way is through the Cozumel Volunteer Connection [CVC] office. Donors may designate a specific Volunteer Brigade to receive their donations or ACS will simply give the donated items where most needed within the turtle program. Currently, ACS funds/supplies ONE of the Volunteer Brigades for the duration of the nesting season. The Grupo IslaMar Brigade works one night each week with 6+ volunteers. With additional supply contributions from those wanting to help the Turtle Salvation Program, CVC can distribute excess supplies to other Volunteer Brigades that work on other nights.

In no way does American Community Services or Grupo Islamar profit from these endeavors. Both entities simply serve the community: one as an effective conduit for facilitation, the other doing all the actual turtle program work with volunteers. Stop by the Cozumel Volunteer Connection office anytime to look at photos of the turtles and volunteers in action as well as make contributions.

CVC is located at 602-B [Upstairs] Raphael Melgar - Next to the Naval Base - Phone: 869-0504

Guidelines for
Turtle Observation...

Sometimes, tourists visiting the bars inside the nesting areas find themselves having to leave after dark at the request of Police or military personnel. If this happens to you, please do your part to help the turtles by following these guidelines during turtle nesting season:

• Use only parking lights between Mescalito's and Paradise Café
• Drive slowly because volunteers are walking on the roadways in low light conditions
• Be quiet because loud noises scare turtles back into the sea without laying eggs
• Never illuminate the beach or ocean in nesting areas
• Observe turtles from the roadside only
• Do not walk on beaches at night during the nesting season

Please Note: Federal law prohibits touching, molesting or disturbing turtles or their nests. Violators will be prosecuted and are subject to fines, penalties, and jail sentences.

Questions or for more information...

If you would like to donate supplies used by the volunteer brigades, please use the list above to make purchases and then email for drop off instructions.

If you have any questions about the Turtle Program, please email turtles@cozumelinsider.com.
NOTE: Email are handled on first-come, first-serve basis by volunteers. Please allow 1 week for a response.

Those wanting to participate and work with a Brigade for 1 or 2 nights during their vacation stay must request permission in advance, be approved and be assigned to a Volunteer Brigade. NOTE: Annual Turtle nesting activity runs May 15 through November 15 only.

To make a request to participate or observe please visit:
Turtle Brigade Participation Application or Observation Request Form
NOTE: Email requests are submitted to an approval process and are handled on first-come, first-serve basis. Please allow 1 week for a response.

[1] Program information courtesy of http://www.cozumelinsider.com/turtles;

    Cozumel Volunteer Connection in partnership with the Municipio de Cozumel
     Project Coordinators: Sherri Davis & Jose Martin Coral

¿Qué pasa Cozumel? - The Splendid Toadfish

Scientific Name:  Sanopus splendidus

Category:  Toadfishes

Also known as:  Coral Toadfish

Size:  4-6 inches

Depth:  25-60 feet

Distribution:  Cozumel (Endemic)

The splendid toadfish, Sanopus splendidus, also known as the coral toadfish, is a species of toadfish found only near the island of Cozumel.  The splendid toadfish stands out from other members of the toadfish family because of its vibrant colors. It has bright yellow fins that contain distinctive patterning, and its head is covered with dark and white stripes.  The species has a total of eight fins; two dorsal fins, two pectoral fins, two pelvic fins, a caudal fin and an anal fin.  With the exception of the pelvic fins, all the fins are bordered by the bright yellow coloring.

The structural features of the species, however, are similar to other members in the toadfish family.  Common characteristics are the flat and broadened head, and the barbells.  Like most species that dwell close to the sand, the splendid toadfish has eyes located on the top of its head which look directly upwards as there is mostly no need for a horizontal vision.  Small and sharp teeth also fill wide jaws.

The splendid toadfish is a shy creature despite its brilliant coloring.  You will have to peek under coral outcroppings to find this little guy.  Look for a sloping sand patch near the base of the coral to find their dens.  Don't be disappointed when they don't come out to say hi, they are difficult to coax out from their homes.

¿Qué pasa Cozumel? - ARM General Felipe Xicoténcatl (C53)

Originally named the USS Scuffle (AM-298), this ship was an Admirable-class minesweeper built for the United States Navy during World War II.  She was awarded a Presidential Unit Citation and five battle stars for service in the Pacific during World War II. Decommissioned in June 1946, she was placed in reserve where she remained for the rest of her U.S. service. The Scuffle was reclassified as MSF-298 in February 1955, but never reactivated.

In October 1962, she was sold to the Mexican Navy and renamed ARM DM-05. She patrolled the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea, performing search and rescue missions, and patrolling for illegal arms and drug trafficking.  In 1994, she was renamed the ARM General Felipe Xicoténcatl (C53).  In 1999, after 55 years of service, the ship was finally decommissioned and donated to the Coral Reefs National Marine Park as an artificial reef and dive attraction.  She was sunk upright, resting on the seabed in 82 feet of water, just offshore from Chankanaab Park.

The C-53 is a great "divers" wreck because of the  large openings cut into the decks, hull and corridors allowing divers easy access into the interior.  The C-53 is 154 feet long and 33 feet wide. The superstructure of the ship rises to 40 feet from the keel, allowing divers to descend upon the superstructure just 20 feet below the surface. The wreck itself was chained to the sandy seabed to prevent it from shifting during storms or hurricanes.

The C-53 is generally considered a beginners wreck because of the easy access to its interior, but the site can suffer from the occasional strong current, making it a bit challenging to navigate at times.  The interiors of the ship are relatively intact and you can visit several interesting sections, including the engine rooms which still contain the massive engines. You can also visit the galley, officers quarters, the head and the radio room. It is advisable to use a waterproof wreck site card to assist you in navigating your way around the wreck.

The exterior of the wreck remains relatively clean, most likely due to the currents, but it boasts a great variety of marine life and sponges. Large schools of barracuda frequent the site along with grouper, eel and a wide variety of other reef fish.

¿Qué pasa Cozumel? - Coral Reefs National Marine Park

Coral Reefs National Marine Park, or Arrecifes de Cozumel as it is known in Mexico, was declared a national marine park on July 19, 1996, under the direction of president Ernesto Zedillo Ponce de León.  Just under 30,000 acres, this park includes the federal maritime zone, as well as both rocky and sandy beaches, mangroves, and palm groves that support important biological communities.  The park was created to protect, conserve, and restore these natural resources which play important roles in is this fragile ecosystem.



Splendid Toadfish - Endemic to Cozumel



Within this reserve there are 26 types of corals, with over 100 subspecies, and 500 fish species, including those native only to the island, such as the Splendid Toadfish.  Thanks to Cozumel's marine life protection programs, there has been a significant increase in the population of loggerhead, hawksbill and green turtles which can be seen quite frequently by divers.

 

Daily Park monitoring activities ensure an accurate and current diagnosis of the state of the reserve, and provide vital information for its preservation programs and scientific research.  In order to protect and conserve this precious marine life, regulations have been put in place and should be strictly adhered to by all.

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IT IS STRICTLY PROHIBITED:

• To stand on, or take hold of the coral reefs
• To fish for, to collect, to disturb or to keep any marine life organism found in the Park (fishes, corals, shells, starfish, etc.)
• To carry spears, hooks, harpoons or explosives
• To carry gloves or knives (Dive Masters and Instructors may register these items for use with the Marine Park).
• To disturb or to remove fauna and flora from their refuge.
• To feed any fish or animals in the Marine Park
• To dispose of any kind of solid waste in the ocean.
• To dump fuel, grease, oil, or any other liquid substances into the ocean
• To use sun block or suntan oils which are not biodegradable.

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Dive guides are authorized to enforce these rules. Your courtesy in carefully following these rules ensures that these precious reefs, living organisms in their own right, will enjoy long and healthy lives.

An Overview of Cozumel's Diving

Cozumel has a variety of dive sites for all skill levels, from shallow dives featuring abundant coral and tropical fish, to more challenging wall dives.  Cozumel is especially known for its drift diving. Currents can range from mild to strong depending on the season and dive site.  A short boat ride will get you to most dive sites, but beach diving is also available from a number of access points.  The majority of boat diving is what is called "live" boat diving.  This is where the boat does not anchor, but drifts along behind the divers.

Depth for most sites ranges from 30 to 90 feet.  Visibility can be anywhere from 80 to 100 feet.  Water temperatures average 77° F in the winter to 85° F in summer.  The dive season is just about any time of year. The rainy season runs from May to September, and the middle of autumn is considered hurricane season.  December through March is generally the busiest time of the year for tourism.  Air temperatures usually range between 70° F and 85° F.

Cozumel Dive Guide Reef Map

¿Qué pasa Cozumel? - Geology & Cenotes

Cozumel is a relatively flat island with its hightest natural point being less that 50 feet above sea level.  The island is primariy composed of limestone; a sedimentary rock made from grains that are actually skeletal fragments of marine organisms such as coral or foraminifera.  The soluble nature of limestone generally results in a karst topography.  Karst topography is a geologic formation shaped by the dissolution of  layers of soluble bedrock forming subterranean limestone caverns (or sinkholes) that have been carved by groundwater.

In the Yucatan, these sinkholes, formed over thousands of years, are filled with groundwater and called cenotes.  But you don't have to travel to the mainland to experience the awe of the cenotes.   Cozumel contains a number of underwater caves beneath its surface. The longest of these caves are located on the island's western shore. Both Cueva Quebrada (length: 29,529 ft) and Cueva Aerolito (length: 20,014 ft) release large volumes of fresh water directly to the Caribbean through submerged coastal entrances.  One of three cenotes in the Cueva Aerolito system, Aerolito de Paraiso (Paradise Crater) is just five minutes south of town and is packed with profuse life, including juvenile barracuda, sea stars and lobster. You can enter this cenote through a lagoon and with just a slip through a crack you are free to explore its sunny passageways.  Cozumel's cenotes are restricted, however.  You may only gain aceess to them if you are a qualified cave diver with the appropriate registration. Cueva Quebrada

If you don't have the necessary qualifications to dive the cenotes of Cozumel, you are always able to experience cenotes on the mainland by snorkeling, swimming or diving.