Bonaire Bits - Salt

Bonaire may have lacked many of the resources that made other Caribbean colonies prosperous, but it did have an abundance of one precious commodity – that was salt.  A necessary ingredient for preserving meat and fish before the days of refrigeration, salt historically became the root of many conflicts between European factions.  The eventual Dutch takeover of Bonaire nearly four centuries ago underscored the value of salt.

Slaves were not only brought to Bonaire to tend the crops, but to work the salt pans.  They generally lived in Rincon with their families where it was believed to be safe from pirates.  Each start to the workweek they would walk to the southern portion of the island to work the salt pans.  At the end of the week they would return to Rincon to gather supplies at Mangazina di Rei (King’s storehouse) and visit with their families before heading back.  The production of salt slowed with the abolition of slavery in 1863; however, it continued to be harvested, fluctuating with market demand, tariffs and weather.

In the 1960’s, a U.S. company, Cargill Corporation, designed solar salt works on the island, revitalizing the industry and becoming responsible for Bonaire’s thriving salt industry today.  Huge mounds of salt crystals can be seen on the south end of the island.  Bonaire salt is extracted from the Caribbean Sea.  The seawater is circulated either by gravity or pumps and flows through successive man-made ponds.  It flows a long way, taking on the form of saturated brine produced by natural evaporation, before it arrives at the salt beds where it crystallizes and becomes ready for harvesting.  Visitors can watch the salt harvesting and loading of ships via a conveyor crossing over the coast road.

Cargill Salt produces, packages and ships salt for agricultural uses, food, water conditioning, industrial and packaged ice control.  Cargill makes over 1,000 different salt products/package sizes and markets national and regional brands, including Diamond Crystal® branded household consumer food and water softener salt products and Champions Choice® branded agricultural salts.

On a side note, the disease Lymphatic Filariasis (LF), commonly referred to as elephantiasis, is one of the leading causes of disability in the world.  It affects roughly one-third of the population in Haiti, and since 1993 it has been targeted for elimination by the Norte Dame Haiti Program (NDHP).  Fascinatingly enough, this debilitating disease can be eliminated using something humans consume every day: table salt.  Recently Cargill assisted in relief efforts for Haiti by donating 100 metric tons of raw salt that will be fortified and provided to Haitians.

Bonaire Bits - Places to Visit

As mentioned in my "history" blog, wild donkeys were allowed to roam the island of Bonaire during its early colonization.  They were used as work animals and transportation, but as society progressed, these animals were abandoned to survive on their own.  Unfortunately, this left the animals to suffer from dehydration and starvation.  And as modern vehicles became part of life on Bonaire, donkeys fell victim to traffic.  These animals (and often their orphans) are left on the side of the road to die.  Furthermore, donkeys can be the victims of abuse as well.

It is the mission of Donkey Sanctuary Bonaire to alleviate the unnecessary suffering of these poor animals.  Since 1993, they have been providing food, water and medical care in a sanctuary that gives these donkeys plenty of room to roam.  Over 400 donkeys live a protected life here.

You are welcome to visit the sanctuary to see their good work first-hand.  They are open daily from 10am-5pm.  Admission is $6 USD for adults.  Visit their gift shop for souveniers.

Directions from the airport:
Heading south after passing the entrance to Flamingo Airport, you will find Windsock Beach on your right. After you pass the end of the runway, take your first left onto a dirt road. Continue straight along this dirt road, which borders the southern edge of the airport. After about 2.5 kilometres, the entrance to Donkey Sanctuary Bonaire will be on your right.

For more information, visit their website at www.donkeysanctuary.org

Butterfly Farm Bonaire

The Butterfly Farm Bonaire hosts a tranquil retreat in their cool greenhouse where they raise butterflies from the area as well as from all over the Caribbean.  Butterflies on exhibit come from their own breeding program as well as from a farm in Costa Rica.  A cool oasis in the arid kunuku, enjoy a refreshment as you relax.  Take a book, take a stroll or take some photos while you enjoy these colorful butterflies flying around, eating, or resting on the greenery.

 

Butterfly Farm Bonaire is open Tuesday - Sunday, 9am-5pm.  Admission is $12 USD for adults.  Just a 7 minute drive from the center of Kralendijk; take the road to the beach of Sorobon (Kaya Nikiboko Zuid to Kaminda Sorobon) and you will see the signs that guide you to the farm.

For more information, visit their website at http://www.butterflyfarmbonaire.org/index.htm

Rooi Lamoenchi

Explore an authentic kunuku while on a guided walking-tour through a serene, ecological nature preserve in the kadushi (cactus) wilderness.  Learn its history and traditions from native Bonairean, Ellen Cochrane-Herrera, whose family has owned this countryside home for more than 100 years.  Located east of Kralendijk, Rooi Lamoenchi is a model of plantation life on 56 hectares with landscaped trails and ocean views amongst Wayaca cactus, Divi-Divi, Brazilia, Mesquite and Aloe plants.

Two tours are conducted daily by Appointment Only.  Tours include the old plantation house, the grounds, an old slave wall, a dam built by hand in 1908, and the aloe fields.  Ms. Herrea takes time to explain antique tools, furniture and household items which are original to the plantation.  Admission for adults is $21 USD.

Address:  Kaya Suiza 23, Playa Baribe

Phone: 599/717-8489 or 540-9800

Located northeast of Rincon, Mangazina di Rei is the second oldest stone building on Bonaire, estimated to have been built between 1810 and 1824.  It was used by the government (Rei) to store provisions for the government slaves, as well as farming tools.  Every Saturday afternoon, the slaves would gather at the Mangazina to receive their weekly provisions.

The Magazina structure was recently completely restored.  An open air museum of historic houses and other authentic replications on the property exhibit examples of building techniques used by Bonaire’s early inhabitants.  On display are examples of Kas di Bara (Stick house), Kas di Piedra (Stone house), Kas di Tabla (Wooden house), Fornu di Karbon (Charcoal pit), Fornu di Kalki (Limestone furnace), and Fornu di Sentebibu (Aloe oven).

Guided tours are conducted Tuesday - Saturday, 10am-5pm.  Admission to the museum is $10 USD for adults.

Address:  Kaya Rincon z/n

For more information, visit their website at:  http://www.mangazinadirei.org/index.html

Bonaire Bits - So Many Dive Sites

[Franko's Maps - Available for purchase at The Dive Shack]

With no less than 86 official dive sites, 54 of which are shore dives, Bonaire truly is a divers' paradise!  Divers from around the world come to admire Bonaire's 55 types of coral and 370 species of fish.  Experience what they call "Diving Freedom" by driving up to a dive site marked by those yellow stones along the side of the road, park your car, put your gear on, and just walk into the water.  The most difficult part is choosing which sites to see!

Below I have highlighted just a few sites, so you can get a taste of what awaits you:

1000 Steps: (Depth 10-120ft)

Are there really 1000 Steps?  No, but after your dive, the actual 67 steps you have to climb back up may feel like 1000.  But the dive is well worth the effort.  This dive site situated in front of the Radio Netherlands towers is rated novice to intermediate for its clear waters, light currents, and depth.  The marker buoy is located in 21ft of water, right at the steep drop-off.  Schools of fish are in abundance both in the shallows and along the reef.  You will spot tangs, gray angels, many types of filefish, honeycomb cowfish, schoolmasters, male stoplight parrot fish, and even ocean surgeonfish.  Also be on the lookout for hawksbill turtles.

Oil Slick Leap: (Depth 20-80ft)

This site is located right next to STINAPA Park Headquarters and there is plenty of parking.  It got its name because this was the original proposed site for an oil storage terminal, but no actual oil slicks have ever occurred here.  Entrance into the water at this site is a 4ft jump.  Exit is by way of a ladder (courtesy of Caribbean Club Bonaire).  This site is rated novice and has only mild currents.  Since the site has no beach, visibility is always excellent.  Big gorgonian fans with flamingo tongue cowries nestled in their branches can be found in the shallows.  Turtles seem to like the hard coral here and there is generally a good population.  This is a popular site for barracudas, too.  And don't forget to search the gorgonians for seahorses!

Hilma Hooker: (Depth 20-100ft)

Some people say if you haven't dove the Hilma Hooker then you've never been on Bonaire!  A former cargo ship used to smuggle drugs, it was confiscated by police and customs and later sunk as a dive objective.  This site is rated as advanced because of light to moderate currents and depths of 60-100ft.  (For penetration, divers should be certified in wreck and deep diving.)  Lying on its side at the beginning of the double reef system, the Hilma Hooker is covered in orange coral and has become a permanent home to different species of fish, varying from tarpons to barracudas and green moray eels.  This is a popular boat dive site as well as shore dive.  To avoid the crowds, you will want to dive this site in the early morning or late afternoon.  This is also a popular night dive site.

Captain Don's Reef: (Depth 15-130ft)

Take advantage of your boat dives and head out to Klein Bonaire to visit the must-dive site of Capt. Don's Reef.  With mild currents and depths from 15-130ft, this site is rated novice but is great for all levels.  Located at the mooring bouy, check out the plaque dedicated to Bonaire's diving pioneer, Don Stewart, which thanks him for his dedication to the preservation of Bonaire's reefs.  This reef has a series of points and valleys with lots of white sand, sometimes referred to as sugar sand.  Look for peacock flounder in the sand.  Enjoy the beautiful coral formations at the drop-off as well at the tube sponges and orange elephant ears.  This reef is residence to French grunts, gray angels, bicolor damsels and marauding wrasses.  Look for comensal shrimp amongst the purple-tipped anemones and frogfish in the rope sponges.

Bonaire Bits - Hazardous Marine Life

As a diver you know with all the excitement of diving amongst the beautiful colors and unusual formations, you must remember to respect the environment and use appropriate caution.  With the abundant diversity of marine life Bonaire offers there are of course hazards that a diver must beware.  Remember to be especially careful on night dives.  Hazardous marine life is not ferocious, but often is quite small and highly venomous.

Bristle Worms  Although they appear soft and fluffy, their tiny hairs can deliver a sting.  If a diver is stung, pick out the bristles using a pair of tweezers or duct tape, then submerge the sting in very hot water for 30-60 minutes.  If the diver has a history of venom allergies, seek medical attention immediately.

Banded Box Jellyfish

Physonect

Box Jellyfish

Jellyfish  The jellyfish sting is contracted by brushing into the nematocysts located in their trailing tentacles.  Most stings can be treated with vinegar, but a diver may need to seek medical aid if they react adversely (similar to bee sting allergies).  Keep an eye out for jellyfish in the Lac when snorkeling and beware of man-o-war and sea wasps on the outer reefs.

Fire Coral  This coral may look pretty with its caramel color, but touching it is like putting your hand on a lit cigarette.  The coral has tiny nematocysts that cause burning and itching, and can also cause swelling.  Rinse the affected area with water or seawater and apply vinegar or methylated alcohol.  In a severe case anti-histamines can help, but seek immediate medical treatment.

Sea Urchins  The stings from the spines of these creatures can range from irritating to highly intense.  Even worse, the spines can break off inside the skin.  Be vigilant to avoid contact with these creatures.  If stung, seek medical advice immediately.  The use of antibiotics may be advised.  In extreme circumstances, adminisitering CPR may be the appropriate treatment until the pain subsides.  In some cases spines may have to be surgically removed.

 

Spotted Scorpionfish

  The defense mechanism for these fish is the venom injected from the spines located on their back.  Be on the lookout for these fish in sandy or rubbly areas and on night dives.  This type injury can be very painful and cause swelling.  To treat this wound, wash the affected area, then submerse it in the hotest water the diver can stand for 60-90 minutes and seek medical attention.
 



Blackbar Barracuda

Barracuda  Barracuda bites are quite rare and normally a case of mistaken identity.  They are generally attracted to bright, shiny objects in murky waters.  You will see schools of barracuda (blackbar and great) on Bonaire's reefs - do not tease them.  Their bites can be serious.  If a diver is bitten, stop the bleeding, reassure the victim, treat for shock and seek immediate medical attention.

 

 

Nurse Shark



Sharks  There will be very few encounters with sharks while diving Bonaire.  Attacks are rare, and if one occurs, it is generally due to some misguided feeding attempt or attraction of the sharks by illegal speargun fishing.  If a shark does exhibit aggressive behavior, it is sometimes wise to leave its territory by rising to a shallower depth.    If a shark comes too close, stop, face it, and quietly watch.  Be prepared to push it away with a camera, tank or knife.  If a diver is bitten, treatment is the same as a barracuda bite, stop bleeding with pressure, reassure the victim, treat for shock and seek immediate medical attention.

Bonaire Bits - Need to Know Travel Tips

What to Bring:

Bonaire is an arid, yet tropical climate.  With an average rainfall of 22" per year, the average air temperature is 82º F with 75% relative humidity.  There is a constant trade wind that generally makes the evenings cool and comfortable.  Bring light clothing such as shorts, t-shirts, swimwear and sandals.  Casual is the standard dress code, but cover up (no beach wear) when visiting downtown.  Evening clothes are casual to casual nice.  You may want to bring a light jacket or sweater for evening (especially something to keep you warm after a night dive).  Pack a pair of sturdy shoes if you want to do some hiking.  And don't forget sunglasses, hat and sunscreen for protection.  Also, you will want to pack insect repellent for "no-see-ums" and mosquitoes.

For diving, generally all you need is a 1.5mm to 3mm wetsuit.  Average water temperature is 80ºF.  Have a sturdy pair of booties for walking on rocks and coral fragments as you enter and exit your shore dives.  DO NOT bring a spear gun - they are illegal!  Gloves also face tough restrictions, so leave them home unless you have a medical reason.  Nitrox is offered most everywhere, so DON'T FORGET YOUR C-card and dive log.

Passports & Immigration:

U.S. citizens need a passport to enter Bonaire.  A return or continuing ticket is also required along with sufficient means to support yourself during your stay. (Maximum stay: 14 days with the possibility of extending the visit to 90 days.)  U.S. citizens do not need a visa to enter Bonaire.

Currency/Money:

As of 1 January 2011, the US dollar is known as the official currency on the BES Islands. Only dollars will be dispensed at bank ATMs and counters and all credit and debit balances will automatically be converted into dollars.

Personal Safety:

Bonaire has a reputation for being one of the safest islands in the Caribbean, however visitors should take normal precautions and keep personal property secure.  Hotels have safes, etc. to store passports, tickets, etc.

Although it has been said to have improved, one of the downsides to shore diving in Bonaire is the rampant break-ins and theft from unguarded vehicles parked at dive sites (especially at night).  Heed the locals advice and leave nothing of value in your vehicle.  Leave the vehicle open and do not lock it.  Also, do not try to hide something nearby or in the bushes as all the usual places are generally scouted out first.

Medical Facilities:

San Francisco Hospital has 60 beds and is fully equipped to respond to any emergency. Bonaire has its own recompression chamber, with trained medical personnel, on call 24 hours a day. There are a number of medical doctors on the island and air ambulance service is available.

Hyperbaric/Recompression Chamber:

For diving emergencies, Bonaire has a Hyperbaric Chamber located behind the Centro Medico Office which is across the street from the San Francisco Hospital.

Electricity:

All electricity in Bonaire is 127/120 volts, 50AC.  A two-pronged wall socket similar to plugs in the U.S. is used. However, Bonaire does experience occasional surges and brown-outs, so you may want to bring a surge protector for your more sensitive items such as battery chargers and computers.  Devices used directly in the plugs may run warm, and can burn out if left plugged in for a long time.  Many dive shops have adapters for charging lights, strobes or delicate equipment.

Drinking Water:

Bonaire's seawater is distilled and purified to become one of the purest drinking waters in the world.  Bottled water is readily available also.

Shopping Hours:

Supermarkets in town that sell fresh Dutch and American goods are generally well-stocked with groceries, wine, liquor and snacks, however, you may want to stock up early in the week as most goods are imported by weekly shipments.  Most markets and shops are open Monday through Saturday 8am-12noon and 2pm-6pm.  Some shops stay open through lunch hour.  Bonaire pretty much shuts down on Sunday, but there may be some places open for a few hours from 11am to 2pm.

Taxes:

There is a 5% tax on car rentals, meals, services and general purchases.

Telephones:

Calling the U.S. is easy from Bonaire.  Most hotels offer USA Direct calling service.  Prepaid phone cards are widely available as are cell phone rentals.  Many US phones are compatible with the local providers.

Television:

Most accommodations have access to Cable TV.  They offer an assortment of popular stations.  Bonaire has the NTSC system.

Time Zone:

Atlantic Standard Time (AST), one hour ahead of Eastern Standard Time and the same as Eastern Daylight Time.

Tipping/Gratuities:

Same as in the US -- 10-15% depending on the service.  Some restaurants will automatically add the gratuity.  Give porters and bellhops 50 cents per bag.  For Taxi drivers 10% of the fare is the general rule.

Legal Age:

The legal drinking age on Bonaire is 18 for both beer and other alcohol.  The legal age for gambling in a casino is 21.

Shell and Coral Products:

The taking of shells and natural artifacts is strictly prohibited in Bonaire.  Still, items using shells and marine creatures can be found.  These are normally shipped in from places like Indonesia and The Philippines.  These can often be seen in the form of products like bracelets and earrings.  Divers are encouraged to discourage the creation of these products by not purchasing such items and telling store owners that they disapprove of seeing these items on the shelves.

If you are offered a wildlife product or natural item for sale, ask questions about the product's origin.  If the vendor seems poorly informed, think twice about your actions.  Otherwise, your purchase could encourage continued illegal trade in wildlife, and be confiscated either before you leave Bonaire or on your return home.

When in doubt, don't buy and don't take.  Leave it.  Officials are quick to point out that anyone violating Bonaire's marine environment ordinance is subject to prosecution and heavy fines.  The local motto:  IF IN DOUBT - LEAVE IT OUT

There is a real local grapevine that keeps an eye on environmental indiscretions and reports anything objectionable.  Visitors are also encouraged to join this citizen watch.  Report any infringements to the Marine Park office by telephoning 8444.  [1]

[1] Lonely Planet, "Diving & Snorkeling Bonaire", 2006, p. 146.

Bonaire Bits - Lac

Lac, part of the Bonaire National Marine Park, is the biggest lagoon of the Netherlands Antilles.  From north to south, Lac is almost 2.5 miles long, and from east to west just under 2 miles.  The water surface is approximately 3 square miles.  Although Lac is located on the windward side of Bonaire, this is protected by a barrier reef across most of its entrance to the open sea, and lush mangroves just about everywhere else.  It has two peninsulas: Cai and Sorobon.

The peninsula of Cai is known for its traditional fisherman who fish using the method of hand lines with hooks (this method is a concious choice to prevent over-fishing).  Besides fishing, these days the fishermen who live at Cai also sell refreshments.  Every Sunday afternoon local residents gather here for an informal social party.  You'll find dancing, live music, and outdoor food stalls.

On the peninsula of Sorobon you can find schools to instruct you in the art of windsurfing.  Here is a windsurfer's paradise, with steady winds and smooth, clear, and conveniently shallow waters.  Bonaire has been recognized worldwide as one of the best places to windsurf.  But the shy should beware - Bonaire's highly-regarded naturalist (clothing optional) resort is located at Sorobon Beach.  The resort turns away sightseers, but day trippers can get an all over tan for a U.S $15 day entry fee.

Not only is Lac for windsurfers, but the lagoon is enjoyed by visitors with a variety of interests.  Kayakers, birdwatchers and snorkelers (even some scuba divers) enjoy the beauty of Lac.  Lac is home to three globally endangered species: the Green Turtle, the Queen Conch and the mangrove trees.  The ecosystem of Lac is very fragile, so the lagoon has been divided up into zones to maintain a proper balance.

Zonation

White zone: Undisturbed natural and wildlife area – no commercial activities
Blue zone: Windsurfing / kayaking
Yellow zone: Snorkelling / kayaking
Green zone: Guided kayaking activities
Orange zone: Guided snorkelling activities
Red zone: Swimming, snorkelling and general beach recreation

Kayaking through the mangrove forest at Lac is both fun and educational. The water is so clear that you can see young reef fish, sea stars, sponges and an occasional turtle right from your kayak. In order to preserve this precious resource, a certified guide is required for all mangrove kayaking activities. All kayakers need to follow the code of conduct.

SCUBA diving outside the coral dam between Lac and the open water on Bonaire’s East coast is challenging as well as adventurous. We encourage you to dive with an experienced guide.

Birdwatchers also enjoy a visit to Lac since it is particularly important as a nesting and roosting area for birds. The entire mangrove forest is a protected bird sanctuary. The brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis), the great blue and great white heron (Ardea herodias), the frigate bird (Fregata magnicicensis) and the royal tern (Sterna maxima) are the most common species in this area. Flamingos (Phoenicopterus ruber) often feed in the open shallows, the more salty parts of this system. These birds can be seen best in the early morning or late afternoon along the roads leading to Cai and Sorobon. [1]

Code of Conduct

• Snorkel, windsurf or kayak only in designated areas
• Stay out of sea grass beds
• Kayak and snorkel only with a certified guide
• Do not litter
• Do not make open fires on the beach
• Never touch, pick or handle marine animals
• Do not participate in any of the following activities:
  - Collecting conch
  - Catching turtles
  - Anchoring or spear fishing
  - Kite surfing
• Remember to bring your Nature Fee tag to show your BNMP entrance fees have been paid before exploring the many wonders of Lac

Lac, with its combination of mangrove forest, seagrass beds and the coral dam, which act as a border between the open ocean and Lac, is one of the most biodiverse wetlands in the Caribbean.  Wen you visit Lac, the diversity of birds, fish, and other life will attract your attention immediately.  Each area of Lac -- the mangrove forest, the open water area and the coral dam -- forms a different habitat where specific organisms live. These organisms use the specific circumstances of the habitat to their advantage; most are perfectly adapted to the habitats in which they live. [1]

Lac E-Brochure

[1] STINAPA Bonaire National Parks Foundation - www.bmp.org

Bonaire Bits - Washington-Slagbaai National Park

The Washington-Slagbaai National Park, located in the northwestern end of Bonaire and covering over 13,500 acres, is an excellent introduction to the natural landscape and vegetation of Bonaire.  Comprised of two of the largest former plantations (or kunukus), originally settled by Spanish colonists from South America, the park covers almost one-fifth of the island.  Where once this area supplied exports of salt, charcoal, aloe extract, divi-divi pods, and goats to Curaçao and Europe, now it provides a safe haven for terrestrial native and endemic species of Bonaire.  Visitors will not only enjoy the scenic vistas within the park, but may also view parrots, flamingos, parakeets, iguanas, wild donkeys, goats and many other species during their visit.  The beaches inside the park are an important nesting ground for all four species of sea turtles found in the Caribbean.

Washington-Slagbaai National Park is also rich in cultural and historic heritage.  Stop by the Visitor Center at the park’s entrance to visit the museum and walking trails for an enjoyable learning experience.  In the center of the park, there is also a walking trail up to Brandaris, the highest hill of Bonaire which offers a wonderful view of the island, and only takes about three hours round trip.  And let’s not forget the wonderful diving/snorkeling opportunities available in the park.

The park is open daily from 8 am to 5 pm except on official holidays.  As a Nature Fee holder you may enter the Washington Slagbaai National Park free of additional charge by showing your dive tag, the written receipt of purchase of your tag and a picture ID (this can be your C-card, driver's license, etc.).  Depending on the amount of time you have to explore, you can choose different routes through the park.  There are two driving trails, the shorter, green route (17 miles), which takes about two hours to travel, and the longer, yellow route (28 miles), which takes about four hours. These are rugged dirt roads, and only four-wheel drive vehicles are recommended.

The latest you are allowed to enter the Park is 2:45 pm.  However, cyclists and hikers who plan to climb to Brandaris must enter the Park no later than noon.  If you intend on diving, dives should commence prior to 2:30pm, allowing time to vacate the park by 5:00 pm.

Virtual Park Map

For more information on the park, click the link below:

Washington-Slagbaai National Park E-Brochure