5 Can't Miss Dive Sites in La Paz - Baja, Mexico

My first visit to La Paz, over 20+ years ago, I was a young, single lady looking for an exciting, inexpensive, short adventure. I had never heard of La Paz before and knew nothing about it but that it was a small town toward the southern tip of Baja. A friend and I had spotted this tiny ad in the travel section of the newspaper, saw it was something we could afford, and we were off.  Not much has changed in La Paz since those days.  A little growth is inevitable, but La Paz is like a guardian of "old Baja" for those nostalgic for the way things used to be. It is not a massive beach resort - so if you are one of those people who loves a beach lined with 5000-room mega hotels, then La Paz is not the place for you.

Set among the beautiful juxtaposition of arid desert landscape and azure waters of the Sea of Cortes, La Paz is within easy reach of isolated beaches, calm bays and nearby islands once the hiding place for looting pirates, now kayakers and beachcombers favorite destinations. Inland, lies the desert, unexpected oases and the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains. The natural beauty and serenity of Baja Sur calls to sports fishermen, scuba divers, eco-tourists, naturalists, whale watchers and travelers of all ages seeking out desert diversity and uncommon wildlife. 

It has been said that diving the waters near La Paz can be "like a box of chocolates. You never know what you’ll get", but those surprise interactions are what keep me coming back again and again. Some of the dive sites can be over an hour's boat ride to reach, but while cruising the open water I've been lucky enough to spot mobula rays, pilot whales, and even a sailfish. I never tire of scanning the water surface, as well as the shoreline, looking for something else to surprise me.  When it comes to enjoying life below the water, I've chosen these five dive sites as my favorite to return to time after time.

1.  Los Islotes

Difficulty: Novice
Depth: 25-50ft

Situated half a mile north of Isla Espiritu Santo, this popular dive site consists of two large rock islets, one of which has a natural arch making for a fun swim-through. Best known as home to a colony of over 200 Californian sea lions, divers and snorkelers have a great time interacting with these inquisitive creatures. You'll often find yourself turning to find the pups pulling at your fins, eager to play, showing off and turning circles around you with your comparatively clumsy underwater moves. The larger bulls will become territorial during the mating season in protection of their harem, so if you know what is good for you, you will heed their warning when they bark and blow bubbles at you. Diving this wonderful rock formation, you'll discover a sea brimming with life.  You can expect to see dense shoals of silver sardines, blue and gold King Angel Fish, and large groupers like to hang around too.  Search the sands for jawfish, and make sure to slow your row to take a little closer look among the rocks.  You may be lucky enough to find a seahorse or two.

2. Swanee Reef

Difficulty: Novice
Depth: 25-35ft

One of my favorite dive sites, I remember descending for the first time and wondering why it looked like the sea floor was moving. To my amazement, it was hundreds of schooling fish just below my fin tips. With a max depth of 35 ft, great visibility, coral heads, and walls covered with gorgonian fans, Swanee Reef is an excellent dive site.

This site is also infamous as the cause for the wreck of the ferry, “Salvatierra”. This ill-fated ship ran into the reef some 35 years ago. You can still find the deep gouge left behind by the big ferry, now barely visible because it is so overgrown by corals and sea fans. The top of this reef is only 6 ft deep and it is covered with living coral where a wide variety of creatures call it home. This reef is now marked with a channel marker to avoid more incidents.

Here big schools of green jack find shelter from larger predators, at any given time you can be surrounded by them just to see them disappear when other fish or a sea lion comes by.  Look in crevices for a variety of eels from spotted snake eels to jeweled, white face, and green morays. Then swim just off the reef to the sandy bottom to enjoy the garden eels as well.

3. Salvatierra Ferry Wreck

Difficulty: Intermediate

Depth: 60ft

This site is the wreck of the cargo ferry “La Salvatierra” which sank in 1976 moments after striking Swanee rock (subsequently fitted with a warning light); of the hundreds of passengers, not one life was lost and the insurance company actually paid everyone for their losses….. 50 pesos each!

The Salvatierra is laying on a sandy bottom in 60 ft of depth, and is approximately 70% intact although this has changed slightly because of recent hurricanes. Both propellers are exposed and many of the trucks which where her cargo are still visible and their tires remain inflated to this day.

The wreck has formed an “artificial reef” attracting a wide variety of marine life. If you are fond of the porcupine puffer like I am, then you will be in heaven as they seem to abound on this wreck. And for a bit of fun, check out the toilet bowl sitting out among the wreckage. If he still resides there, you can have a fun encounter with a very territorial damselfish.

This is an interesting and enjoyable wreck dive with no penetration. I've rated this site intermediate because it can be subject to some strong currents.

4. El Bajo

Difficulty: Intermediate - Advanced
Depth: 60 – 120+ft

The site consists of three distinct sea mounts aligned in a row. The northern-most peak rises to within 83ft of the water surface, the central peak to within 52ft, and the southern peak to within 69ft of the surface. The central peak, with its shallow depths and relatively flattop, is the primary spot dive boats choose to anchor.

This site has gained the reputation of being one of the premier dive sites in the world for schooling hammerhead sharks. Schools range from between six to hundreds, generally circling the sea mounts in a clockwise direction for some unknown reason. While schooling, hammerheads are not aggressive, and reassuringly enough they actually appear disinterested in divers. El Bajo is also home to an abundance of sea life, including mass schooling fish (amber jacks, yellowfin, etc.), octopus and green moray eels. 

This is not a dive site for beginners. Currents can be challenging, and sometimes you may have to search out the hammerheads which can make for a tiring dive.

5. La Reina

Difficulty: Novice – Intermediate

Depth: 80ft

"The Queen" is a reef protruding out of the water three miles north of Isla Cerralvo. It had a light on it at one time, but last time I dove there, I found pieces of it down below on the reef thanks to a recent hurricane.

This is what you call a “must dive” site! It has a little of everything In depths of 80ft a large reef is found populated by gorgonian fans of all types, brain corals, large schools of brightly colored tropical fish, rays, green, zebra & jewelled morays. Pieces of a wreck are strewn about making a happy home for many of the eels.

This dive is exposed to winds; subject to weather and current as well. Thanks to these currents, the visibility is generally great. Time it right and you will find La Reina to be a cleaning station for giant mantas from late July to November.

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