A Must-Experience Day at the Market

A walk through Malatapay Tabo Market may be described by some as an assault on the senses, but I found the cacophony stimulating.  So if you find yourself diving the waters of Dumagete, Negros Oriental in the Philippines, I highly recommend taking a break from diving to take in the local farmers market.  This particular market only happens on Wednesdays, and if you are staying at the Atlantis Dive Resort as I did, they will be happy to arrange for you to experience this weekly gathering for yourself.

A site to be seen

Driving down the main road in the resort's jeepney, it doesn't take long before you realize you have arrived.  The hustle and bustle of the market simply overflows into the main thoroughfare.  People are milling at the tables to the market entrance.  Families with bags full of goods hop on their motorcycles to head home.  And jeepneys are stuffed with riders and livestock inside and out, including on their roofs.

As you disembark from your chariot, you become overwhelmed by the multitude of sites and smells to take in.  Where do you go?  What do you look at first?  What is that scent?  Well, take a deep breath, get your bearings, and begin. It's actually quite simple.  The market consists of mainly one large aisle to explore from the street to the beach.  Just remember to remain alert to make sure your are not in the path of a tricycle laden with livestock or a farmer walking his cattle and you'll be fine.

Your one-stop shop

The Malatapay Market is where the locals come to sell their wares.  You'll find everything from fresh fruits & veggies, dried & fresh fish, to jewelry, clothing & even hardware.  The main difference from this farmers market and others you might find is the livestock market.  Far down on the right-hand side of the market are the livestock pens.  You'll find chickens, goats, pigs, water buffalo and cattle are all here for the buying.  This is where I must put in a disclaimer.  If you are very sensitive to what you may interpret as cruelty to animals and are not well-prepared for the difference in cultures, you may want to steer clear of the market.  I do have to admit, being the animal lover that I am, I did find the market difficult to experience at times.

Good eats

At the very end of the market you will find the food huts where hot meals and cool desserts are prepared.  Take a look around first to decide what looks tastey, then dig in. You can get a filling meal pretty cheap. And don't be afraid to try something different, you could be deliciously surprised, or not.

Going to the market is a morning event.  Come noon-time, everyone packs up and heads home, only to return to do it all again the next week.  It is definitely something you won't soon forget.

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Top Ten Reasons to Dive Tubbataha

1. Solitude. So Isolated, It Can Only Be Dived by Liveaboard

Set sail southeast from Puerto Princesa City in the Philippines' western province of Palawan for about 10-12 hours and you will find yourself arriving at the Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park Marine Protected Area (MPA).  An oasis in the center of the Sulu Sea, Tubbataha is comprised of two large coral atolls and the smaller Jessie Beazley Reef.  At the northern apex of the Coral Triangle - the global center of marine biodiversity - this amazing underwater nature preserve is a mecca for scuba divers and a model for coral reef conservation due to its distance from any populated areas that would apply stress to sensitive systems like these reefs.

2. Sharks! 12 Different Species

Tubbataha is for shark lovers:

• Silvertip Shark
  
• Grey Reef Shark
• Oceanic Whitetip Shark
• Blacktip Reef Shark
• Whitetip Reef Shark
• Tiger Shark
• Pelagic Thresher Shark
• Scalloped Hammerhead
• Great Hammerhead
• Tawny Nurse Shark
• Whale Shark
• Zebra Shark

3. Majestic Mantas and More

Nature thrives in this underwater park, including a wide array of rays:

• Oceanic Manta ray
• Reef Manta Ray
  
• Spinetail Mobula
• Bluespotted Stingray
• Bluespotted Fantail Ray
• Marble Ray
• Porcupine Ray
• Whitespotted Eagle Ray
• Honeycomb Whipray
• Leopard Whipray
• Reticulate Whipray

4. Hawksbill & Green Sea Turtles

When diving the northern tip of the South Atoll, you will lose count of the number of green and hawksbill turtles you see.  The North Islet, a coralline sandy cay of the North Atoll, is an important developmental area and nesting habitat for the green sea turtle. And the Tubbataha preserve, in general, is a favorite foraging area for the hawksbill turtle.

5. Dolphins & Whales

Tubbataha a haven for at least five species of dolphins:

• Grey's spinner dolphins
• Spotted dolphins
• Common bottlenose dolphins
• Fraser's dolphins
• Risso's dolphins

And if you're lucky, you may see a few whales too, such as the Blue whale or Sperm whale.

6. Colorful Corals

An underwater rainbow, Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park (TRNP) is home to some of the most beautiful coral reefs in the world. You will be amazed by walls and reefs overgrown with forests of multi-hued soft corals.  TRNP boasts 369 species of corals, which is about half of all coral species in the world, and almost 80% of all coral species in the Philippines.

7. Diversity

615 species of fish have been recorded at TRNP. Colorful reef fish crowd corals growing in the shallows, while pelagics, such as tuna, mackerel, jacks and barracudas, circle in schools near the reef crests, and sharks haunt the steep drop offs.

8. Macro Mecca

Most anywhere you dive in the Philippines, you will be astounded by the wide array ofnudibranchs, shrimp, and pipefish.  TRNP is no exception. UW macro photographers, I hope you bring plenty of memory cards and backup batteries.

9. Delightful Dive Sites

(North Atoll)

Amos Rock (aka Southwest Rock) A breathtaking wall covered in corals & gorgonian fans. Take your time cruising along, you may spot a pygmy seahorse clinging to one of those fans. And don't forget to look up or you may miss the variety of large fish that drift by divers, including groupers, snappers, mackerels, and Napoleon wrasses. Grey reef sharks and white-tip reef sharks are often passers-by in this area as well.

(South Atoll)

Delsan Wreck & Black Rock (near the lighthouse)  Hammerheads are the most prized sighting here as well as occasional whale sharks passing by. Look out for guitar sharks in the shallows.

(Jessie Beazly Reef)

You can see schools of bumphead parrotfish munching on the corals along this reef and watch out for inquisitive napoleon wrasse. Here the shallow reefs are full of colorful tropical fish like the regal angelfish and titan triggerfish.

10. Liveaboard Life

Sleep, eat & dive all day long. And nighttime too! Spacious dive decks to set up and store your gear. Room for cameras too. Delicious food. And the best thing is the dive sites are brought to you. You can get quite spoiled.

Open to diving only 3 months out of the year, the Tubbataha seasons runs from mid-March through early June to avoid the monsoonal season in the Sulu Sea.  If Tubbataha is on your bucket list, make sure to book a year out minimum as these trips book up quickly.

Like what you've read? Want to learn how to better enjoy your scuba diving vacation? Maybe you'd like to travel with Delightful Departures on an upcoming adventure? Become part of the Delightful Departures community. Discover different destinations and travel tips in our biweekly newsletter. In addition, you'll receive our FREE "Know Before You Go" guide just because. Join today.

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Save 10% on your purchase when you apply the coupon code:  delightfuldepartures