Delightful Departures: Loco for La Paz

La Paz is a tranquil port in the southern region of the Baja Peninsula. With a population of only 220,000, it has managed to maintain its provincial and nostalgic atmosphere, belying its role as the commercial and political state capital that it is.

Initially "discovered" by Herman Cortes in 1535, this inhospitable region remained virtually unpopulated until 1720 when a Jesuit mission settlement was established. After 30 years of enduring the harsh environment, disease, and Indian revolts, the mission was abandoned. There was no further attempt at a permanent settlement of La Paz until 1811. In 1829, after a hurricane wiped out the town of Loreto to the north, La Paz was named the capital of Baja California. After settlers noticed the beautiful pearl jewelry the local indians were wearing, La Paz soon became a strong leader in the pearl diving industry. Unfortunately, this prosperity was destroyed in the 1930's when disease killed the oyster beds.

The vitality of this port community remained dimmed until the completion on the 1,044-mile trans-peninsular in 1973. In 1974, the southern region of the peninsula became Mexico's newest state, Baja California Sur, and with that La Paz was named this state's capital. With the establishment of the highway and the new statehood, La Paz began to not only attract the most adventurous travelers, but also those looking for a welcoming, easy-going holiday.

Set among the beautiful juxtaposition of arid desert landscape and azure waters of the Sea of Cortes, La Paz is within easy reach of isolated beaches, calm bays and nearby islands once the hiding place for looting pirates, now kayakers and beachcombers favorite destinations. Inland, lies the desert, unexpected oases and the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains. The natural beauty and serenity of Baja Sur calls to sports fishermen, scuba divers, eco-tourists, naturalists, whale watchers and travelers of all ages seeking out desert diversity and uncommon wildlife. La Paz is like a guardian of "old Baja" for those nostalgic for the way things used to be. It is not a massive beach resort - so if you are one of those people who loves a beach lined with 5000-room mega hotels, then La Paz is not the place for you.

The Heart of La Paz

Laid out in the traditional grid fashion, streets radiate from the northwest-facing waterfront on Paseo Alvaro Obregon. Running parallel to Paseo Obregon is La Paz's palm-fringed "malecon", or waterfront promenade, adorned with beautiful sculptures from Mexican artists. La Paz's social life revolves around the malecon. It is the place to see and be seen. Enjoy a delicious meal on the terrace of a restaurant overlooking the promenade and bay, and watch all the activity as it passes by. At night, return to find the malecon the hub of the city's night life.

Just a few blocks from the promenade, you can head inland to find the "zocalo", or the main square of Mexican cities. This is the heart of a city's cultural and political life. Velasco Garden (also known as Constitution Plaza), La Paz's zocalo, is a lovely open space shaded by trees, with a fountain in the center, tiled walkways, a pink quartz gazebo, and the 19th century Catedral de Nuestra Senora de la Paz. Sitting on the site of the city's original Jesuit mission, this cathedral was built by Dominican priests in 1861. Inside, you will find paintings rescued from old missions.

On the north side of the plaza is the Biblioteca de Historia Regional de las Californias. Formerly the Palacio de Gobierno, it now houses the library of regional history. You will discover the zocalo is an inviting place to relax and meet with the locals and other tourists. And in the evening it becomes a lively place where people gravitate to its coffee shops, restaurants and nightclubs.