10 Things You Should Know About Palau

In the world of diving, many of us have heard of the scenic rock islands of Palau and the splendid diving to be found there.  But if you haven't had the pleasure of visiting this picturesque island nation yet, then here are ten things you may want to know before you go.

1) Typhoons are a rare occurrence for the island nation of Palau

The Republic of Palau is located in the western portion of Micronesia, bordered by the Philippines to the northwest, Indonesia to the south-southwest and the Federated States of Micronesia to the east. Just north of the Equator (7°30'N 133°30'E) and outside of the typhoon zone, Palau enjoys a warm climate year-round.  The average temperature is 82°F with an average rainfall of 150 inches per year, keeping humidity about 82% most of the time. The most frequent rainfall is between July and October, but the sun still shines aplenty during this time.

2) The Battle of Peleliu resulted in the highest casualty rate of any amphibious assault in American military history

During World War II, battles between American and Japanese forces were fought on Palau's islands, including the major Battle of Peleliu.  Peleliu's network of rocky caves, which the Japanese connected with tunnels, effectively acted as a fortress. The Japanese used Peleliu's unique terrain to their advantage, stationing troops in caves just above invading U.S. forces so as to inflict the maximum amount of damage on the troops below.

In 1947, after the end of the war Palau, along with other Pacific Islands, was made part of the U.S.-governed Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands. As part of its mandate, the U.S. was to be responsible for improving Palau's infrastructure and educational system so that these islands could become a self-sufficient nation. In 1979, Palau voted against becoming part of the newly independent Federated States of Micronesia. It wasn't until 1994 that Palau claimed is self-sufficiency and gained its full sovereignty upon signing the Compact of Free Association with the U.S.

Today Palau is politically a presidential republic in free association with the U.S. In turn, the U.S. provides defense, funding, and access to social services. Palau's economy is based mainly on tourism, subsistence agriculture, and fishing, with a significant portion of the Gross National Product derived from foreign aid.  Remnants of WWII are still visible throughout Palau's islands if you look and there are a few sunken plane and ship wrecks accessible for recreational diving.

3) Palau is the world's first Shark Santuary

On September 25, 2009, Palau President Johnson Toribiong announced to the United Nations that Palau's territorial waters and extended economic zone (EEZ) were to be recognized as the first official sanctuary for its 135 species of Pacific sharks and rays considered endangered or vulnerable. Because sharks do not reach sexually maturity until after several years of life and have low fertility rates in comparison to other harvested fish, sharks are vulnerable to overfishing. Thanks to the creation of its shark sanctuary, Palau forbids all commercial shark fishing within its EEZ waters which are approximately 230,000 sq mi (about the size of France).

"The purpose of this (sanctuary) is to call attention to the world to the killing of sharks for commercial purposes, including to get the fins to make shark fin soups, and then they throw the bodies in the water," Toribiong said. Thanks in large part to the creation of Palau's shark sanctuary and other conservation efforts, today it is easy to enjoy viewing sharks while diving in the crystal clear turquoise waters of this Pacific island nation. 

4) Don't fear the sting of the golden jellies of Jellyfish Lake

Often when people speak of Palau, they can't help but mention their delightful visit to Jellyfish Lake. It is like no other experience. Snorkeling this lake is a popular tourist activity and an unusual phenomenon not to be missed.

Several tour operators in Koror will take groups to Eil Malk island, just a 45 minute boat ride from Koror, to this land-locked marine lake. The lake is accessed by a short, somewhat steep trail from the beach over a rocky limestone hill. Bring good footwear that you don't mind getting wet, such as hard-soled dive booties or Teva sandals for the hike.

Your reward for this hike is the opportunity to snorkel with these unusual jellies. Over the course of a milennia the isolation of this lake has led to a unique transformation of its resident jellies. With no predators to fend off, the golden jellyfish have lost their sting. They spend their days leisurely pulsating across the lake, following the sun and feeding on algae. Like nothing you've ever experienced before, it is a weird and delightful sensation at the same time to feel these gelatinous blobs bouncing off your body as you snorkel through there waters.

5) The Rock Islands let your imagination run wild

A group of uninhabited islands located between Koror and Peleliu, these quirky mushroom-shaped, limestone islands have been eroded over time to sit on giant pedestals above the turquoise waters of Palau's southern lagoon.  On the way to or from your dive sites, make sure to ask your boat captain to cruise in and out of these picturesque islands for a titillating experience. Use your imagination to see different forms in the shapes of these islands, like a whale or even Bart Simpson. And make sure not to miss the Rock Islands' world famous arch.  If the tides are right, your captain may just drive the boat right through it for you.

6) You haven't really lived until you hooked on Blue Corner

When packing your gear for a dive trip to Palau, an essential item of your scuba kit will be the reef hook.  It is a device created to allow a diver to stay in place against the force of a current with little or no effort, in turn saving your precious gas supply, by securing the diver to the reef without damaging it or exposing the diver to contact with coral.

Drift along the reef with your group until you come to the magnificent Blue Corner.  Find a safe spot to secure your reef hook where you and the reef won't be damaged.  Then let go of the reef, sail into the current like a kite, and kick back to enjoy the show!  The endless traffic passing before you is amazing.  Schools of various reef fish and barracuda, numerous reef sharks, the friendly Napoleon wrasse who comes to check you out, and the occasional turtle.  Experience this just once and you will be hooked forever too!

7) Visiting the basalt-rock monoliths on Babeldaob are a great way to pass your final surface interval

Ngarchelong is the northernmost state in Babeldoab, only an hour's drive from Koror. An amazing site of mysterious stone monoliths called Badrulchau can be found in Ngarchelong. The largest grouping of monoliths found on the Palauan islands, numbering 37 surviving, six have rough faces carved into them. The purpose of this monument is largely unknown, but some archeologists believe these stones date back to around 161 A.D. and could possibly have been supports for a massive bai (men's meeting house) - possibly constructed for the demigods. The basalt-rock monoliths, the largest stone weighing 5 tons, often remind visitors of the famous faces of Easter Island (the Moai), but archeologists have determined them to be unique to the Palauan culture. Traditional Palauan religion regarded these ancient monoliths as sacred prayer ground.

8) The stories of Palau are found carved into their beautiful storyboards

Palauans have long been good storytellers and skilled wood carvers, but the art form of the storyboard did not come to Palau until the 1930's when Japanese artisan Hirikatsu Hijikata arrived on the scene and taught Palau's craftsmen to combine the two. The stories depicted on these boards are usually old Palauan legends, or sometimes stories from other islands such as Yap.

The storyboards are generally carved in dort (the Palauan word for ironwood). Storyboards may sometimes take up to weeks to complete, depending on its size and intricacy. When it is complete, the board may be painted, or it may be polished with black or brown shoe polish to retain its shine and show the natural color of the wood.

It used to be the best selection and prices for storyboards were found at the jail in Koror's town center. But on my last visit, prices seemed to be on the rise there. You may also purchase storyboards in various shops, the Etpison Museum, or the senior center.  Make sure to take cash to the jail if you choose to purchase from the inmates' shop because that is all that can be accepted. But wherever you choose to purchase your storyboard, you will find prices may range anywhere from $35 USD - $500 USD depending on size and detail.  Some examples of Palauan legends portrayed on these storyboards are:

Ngirngemelas - the story about a brave Palauan warrior and his deeds

Uwab - a story about a legendary giant

Surech ma Tulei - the story about two lovers

Melechotech-a-chau - the legend of a giant with an unbelievably large penis

9) The taste of Palau is a varied cuisine

The choice of what to eat is almost endless in Koror.  Make sure to step out from your resort at least one evening and sample what Palau has to offer.  Menus range from American to Italian, Indian to local cuisine.  It's all there for the foodie in you to experience.  A must-do is to dine on fruit bat soup.  Even if this sounds like something you may not want to digest, you should order at least one bowl for the group, just for the experience.  Don't know what to do with the furry creature smiling up at you from its coconut cream bath?  Ask the giggling waiter or waitress to show you how to break it down.  It actually is quite tasty.

High on my list of dining establishments are:

• Bem Ermii Burgers & Fries
• Carp Restaurant (Local)
• Drop Off Bar & Grill (seafood)
• Emaimelei Restaurant & Kumangai Bakery (Chinese/Local)
• Fish 'n Fins - Barracuda Bar & Restaurant (International)
• Little Italy (Italian)
• Penthouse Hotel Restaurant (Asian/fruit bat soup)
• Rock Island Cafe (International/American Breakfast)
• Taj (Indian)

10)  It's just a hop, skip and a jump to Palau

The shorter duration flights to Palau from LAX are said to be a "hop, skip, and a jump" to ROR (Koror).  Not necessarily the cheapest, these "time saving" flights to the larger island of Babeldaob generally have you hopping from Los Angeles over to Honolulu, skipping over to Guam, and finally jumping to your destination of Koror.  Of course there are a wide range of air fares and flight routes to get you there, but if time is one of your more important criteria when searching for flights, this route will offer you a duration of 17 1/2 hours to 22 hours to fly you to your destination.

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